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| Details for Replica Viking Chest Plans
 Free Replica Viking Chest plans - This is not another How to article, it is more a How it was done article. I have included the drawings and pictures of the nearly complete replica. I hope to have the lock plate completed and attached in the near future. Also included is some information on other extant Viking chests for your further consideration.Rather than plan and construct the replica myself I decided on obtaining the aid of experts in their field. This procedure produced a lovely replica but the final cost would be prohibitive to most re-enactors. Therefore in this article I hope to help other people make their own replicas by providing the drawings, pictures, hints on construction and information regarding other chest. Pictures of the completed replica can be seen Figure 4. and Figure 5. I would like to take this opportunity to thank; Steven Lowe (Draftsmen), Natalie Vassililaka (Cabinet maker) and Steven Nicoll (Blacksmith) without whom this project could not have been achieved. According to the cabinet maker Natalie there were a number of details which were of note: the bottom had to be slid into one of the mortice and tenon joins first then the sides attached before the final end was attached, or the bottom could not be put in place, see Figure 3. ; the dishing out of the depression on the under side of the lid was very arduous by hand; the bottom, sides and ends need to glued into place before the holes for the dowel are drilled. Steve Nicoll used real iron in the construction of the hinges and nails and it must be noted the iron is a difficult metal to work with at the best of times. In 2001 I made chest base on the Mastermyr find but using smaller planks. For this chest I made the hinges from flat mild steel (19mm wide). I attached (using nails cleated over on the inside) the loop parts to the back first, then attached the tanged parts to the top of the lid (again cleating the nails). When the lid was place on the top of the chest with the hinge tangs going through the loops the tangs were curled over the top of the hoop parts using a ball pean hammer, tight enough to work but not to loose as to rattle when the chest was moved.
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